Pumpkin Moussaka
Pumpkin moussaka splits the difference between the Greek classic and the Turkish habit of putting pumpkin where others put potato. Here 800 g (about 1 lb 12 oz) of roasted pumpkin forms the bottom layer, a sweetish base that makes the sharper eggplant and the spiced meat read with more contrast than in the standard version.
Sumac — ground dried berries with a tart, almost lemony taste, easy to find in Middle Eastern shops or the spice aisle — is the reason to cook this one. Its acidity cuts the fat of lamb or beef in a way that neither the wine nor the tomatoes manage. The tomatoes, incidentally, are grated cut-side down against a box grater: the skin stays in your hand and smooth puree drops into the pan, no blender involved.
- Broil the pumpkin and eggplant slices for 10 to 15 minutes first. It isn’t a spare step; it’s how you get rid of water that would otherwise pool under the casserole.
- Toast the flour in a dry pan until golden before the butter goes in — the bechamel loses its raw pasty taste and picks up a nutty one.
After 45 to 50 minutes at 180 C (350 F), let the dish sit a quarter of an hour or the hot layers will slump under the knife. No sumac? A pinch of lemon zest in the meat gets close, though it fades faster in the oven.
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Ingredients
Instructions
Grind the meat through a meat grinder fitted with a medium die.
Cut the onion into small cubes.
Sauté the onion in oil in a well-heated skillet for 2 minutes. Add the pressed garlic and the ground meat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the meat is done.
Rinse the tomatoes and cut them in half crosswise. Coarsely grate the tomatoes, pressing the cut sides against the grater so the skin stays in your hand. Add the resulting purée to the meat, pour in the wine, and add the spices. Mix everything well. Braise over medium heat until the wine and tomato juices have evaporated. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Wash the eggplant and pumpkin. Peel the pumpkin. Slice the vegetables on a mandoline or cut them thin with a knife.
Lay the slices on a parchment-lined baking sheet, drizzle with oil, season with salt, and roast under the broiler for 10 to 15 minutes, until soft.
Lay a layer of pumpkin slices on the bottom of an ovenproof dish, top with the meat, then a layer of eggplant.
For the sauce, toast the flour in a dry skillet until golden. Add the butter and cook the mixture over medium heat for another minute, stirring constantly. Pour in the milk and add the salt and nutmeg. Simmer for a few more minutes, until the sauce thickens.
Pour the sauce over the eggplant and dust with a pinch of sumac. Bake in an oven preheated to 350°F (180°C) for 45 to 50 minutes.
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