“Old Russian” Vinaigrette with Pike Perch and Porcini
Before you start, a quick orientation: in the West “vinaigrette” means a dressing, but in Russian and Ukrainian kitchens it’s a whole beet salad. This is its “tavern” version from the century before last — beets and potatoes joined by fried fish, marinated porcini, and capers. Legend has it the name came from the French chef Antonin Careme, who pointed at the vinegar bottle and cried “vinaigre!”
The pike perch is what sets this apart from the everyday version. It’s fried on its own, seasoned, then sliced, so it stays firm instead of dissolving into the mix. Any firm white fish will stand in — perch, cod, or even boiled pollock — and the marinated porcini swap easily for button mushrooms or jarred slippery jacks.
Kitchen tricks
To keep everything from staining beet-red, dress the beets with oil separately first, so the potato and beans stay pale. After scalding the cabbage, wring it out well or the extra water thins the dressing. Whisk the dressing last, streaming in the oil and vinegar while stirring so the mustard forms a light emulsion. Serve chilled and mounded, garnished with separately chopped beets and pickles.
Part of Eastern European cuisine — 35 more recipes in the section.
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Ingredients
Instructions
Preparation
Boil the beets, potatoes, and white beans until tender, then let them cool.Shred the cabbage, pour hot water over it, and let it sit until softened. Then drain in a colander and squeeze out the liquid.
Season the pike perch fillet with salt and pepper, fry until cooked through, then cut into slices.
Assembly
Slice the beets, potatoes, mushrooms, and peeled pickles and toss them together.Add the beans, wrung-out cabbage, capers, and sliced fish, then fold together gently.
For the dressing, dissolve the sugar in a small amount of cold water, add the mustard, pepper, and salt, then stir in the oil and vinegar.
Pour the dressing over the salad and toss once more. Mound the vinaigrette in a salad bowl and garnish with finely chopped beets and pickles.
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