Emerald Kohlrabi Salad

Peel the kohlrabi like a potato, grate it coarse, and dress it with oil and green onion — that’s the whole recipe, and its charm is entirely in the freshness. Kohlrabi is a bulbous stem cabbage; the flavor lands somewhere near a white cabbage core but juicier, sweeter, and with none of the bitterness, which is why it works raw with almost nothing added.

The catch is timing and size. Choose a young bulb about as big as a tennis ball — larger ones turn woody and stringy. And grate it right before serving: cut kohlrabi weeps quickly and loses its crunch, and crunch is the entire point of the dish.

For oil, unrefined sunflower is traditional, but unrefined olive or pumpkin-seed oil adds a nutty depth worth trying. To make it more of a meal, fold in grated apple, diced cucumber, or a spoonful of smetana (full-fat sour cream). Serve at once, before the vegetable wilts.

Part of European cuisine — 100 more recipes in the section.

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