Braised Duck Legs with Beets
Sherry is the frame of this dish, not merely braising liquid. Fortified in Andalusia and aged either under a veil of flor yeast or oxidatively, it brings a nutty, faintly bitter edge no ordinary dry white can; a dry amontillado or oloroso suits a savory braise best. The half tablespoon of sugar in the pan exists to round that acidity, not to sweeten anything.
Everything starts in a dry pan. Duck skin is a slab of fat in its own right, so the legs go in skin-side down with no oil at all and render their own — and the onion, garlic, thyme, and rosemary then cook in that duck fat, picking up flavor before the oven is even involved.
The young beets are the second lead, not a side. Over 90 minutes at 180°C (350°F) they drink up the wine sauce and give back an earthy sweetness that carries the duck’s richness. Halve or quarter the large ones, leave small ones whole, and everything turns skewer-tender at the same moment.
That final uncovered half hour is not optional: under foil the meat steams and the crust you built in the pan goes soft. Port, Madeira, or Marsala can replace the sherry; celeriac or very firm pears can replace the beets, though pears go in only halfway through or they collapse. Spoon leftover sauce over potatoes the next day.
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Ingredients
Instructions
Peel the beets; cut large ones into two or four pieces and leave small ones whole. Cut the onion into small wedges and the garlic into two or three pieces.
Place the duck legs skin-side down on a large dry pan and sear for 2–3 minutes. Add the garlic, onion, thyme, and rosemary, turn the duck over, and sear another 4–5 minutes.
Transfer the seared legs to a heatproof dish. Add the beets, pour in the broth and sherry, and add the sugar and bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper and cover with foil.
Place in an oven preheated to 180°C (350°F) for one hour. Remove the foil and leave another half hour to brown. The duck meat and beets should pierce easily with a skewer.
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