Ukrainian cuisine

Ukrainian cuisine: borscht, varenyky and deruny on a wooden table

Ukrainian cuisine is built on what a farming household could grow, store and stretch through a long winter: beets, cabbage, potatoes, wheat and buckwheat, sour cream and farmer’s cheese, mushrooms gathered in autumn, fruit put up in jars. The work was heavy, so the food is substantial — but it is not blunt. Almost every dish is finished with something sharp or sour: a spoonful of sour cream, brine from a pickle jar, dill and garlic crushed together, a splash of vinegar in the borscht pot.

Four names carry the whole cuisine abroad. Borscht (borshch) — the beet soup that UNESCO added to its list of intangible heritage in need of urgent safeguarding in 2022. Varenyky — boiled dumplings, savoury with potato and fried onion or sweet with cherries. Deruny — potato pancakes fried until the edges go lacy. Holubtsi — cabbage rolls braised in tomato. Almost everything else in this section sits around those four.

Regions differ more than outsiders expect. The west, long under Polish and Austrian rule, bakes more and uses more smoked meat. The south borrowed Turkish and Crimean Tatar habits — peppers, aubergine, lamb. The centre and the Poltava region are the heartland of the dishes most people mean by “Ukrainian”: halushky, solozhenyk, thick soups eaten with black bread and salo.

Two calendars shape the cooking. One is the preserving calendar: from July to October kitchens fill with jars — lecho, marinated mushrooms, salted tomatoes, borscht base ready for February. The other is the church calendar, which sets long fasting periods, so a large part of the repertoire is deliberately meatless and dairy-free, and Christmas Eve and Easter each have a fixed table of their own.

Below are the dishes worth starting with, grouped so you can find one instead of scrolling through pages. Quantities are given as they are written in Ukrainian kitchens, in grams and millilitres.

Borscht and soups

Varenyky, deruny and other dough

Breakfast: syrnyky, mlyntsi, oladky

Meat, poultry and fish

The winter jars

The holiday table: Christmas, Easter, and the fasts

Baking and sweets

Drinks: kissel, compote, nalyvka

All 273 recipes in this section are listed below.